Electricity hook up 30

However, since we will have 30 amp service I know I will need to get a 15 amp/30 amp adaptor. Do I use it at the electrical hookup and then use.
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Ah, wait - you're saying you'd put a 30A V sub-panel on the post, so you'd just need the 4 conductors L1, L2, N, G to feed that, and then you'd run the receptacles from that sub-panel. Should work and pass code, don't know that it will be cheaper given the need for an exterior-rated sub-panel and a breaker to feed it.

Wire is expensive, but maybe not THAT expensive. Personally, I'd run 1" schedule 80 conduit and pull individual wet-rated wires rather than run a cable. But that's an opinion. The panel should come factory wired, so all you'll have to do is connect your feed wires. You would need to have a ganged 30A breaker at the upstream breaker panel, as this is a multi-wire branch circuit. If you go this route you will definitely need to have a 20A breaker at the hookup panel to protect the outlet and anything connected to it. You wouldn't need to have another 30A breaker for the RV outlet as the ganged breaker would be enough protection.

It doesn't usually hurt to have an extra one though. The regular outlet should be protected with GFCI as it is outside. The RV plug doesn't as you would normally only use it with a trailer which would have its own GFCI protection for any outlets that need it.

This definitely needs a separate breaker for each outlet at the hookup panel. RV Parks are more likely to be wired this way, as it can reduce the total number of wires that have to be run. By clicking "Post Your Answer", you acknowledge that you have read our updated terms of service , privacy policy and cookie policy , and that your continued use of the website is subject to these policies. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. How should I wire RV hookups? I want to put an RV hookup on a post next to an RV pad. In addition to the 30 outlet, I want to include a 20A convenience recep.

What is a good way to set this up? Tester k 54 Well, those three prongs correspond to a hot volt wire, a ground wire, and a neutral wire. But the amp power cord has 4 prongs. Those four prongs correspond to a ground wire, a neutral wire, and 2 volt hot wires!

We have two lines capable of 6, watts each, not just one. Our total is now 12, watts of potential power for amp service as opposed to only 3, watts for amp service. Now you can see why amp service gives us so much more capability than amp service. Another note on amp service.

Almost all RVs are wired such that the two amp, volt lines are used separately. In other words, some of the appliances are wired to one hot leg of the amp service and the remaining appliances are wired to the other hot leg of the amp service. And now we also know why there are two amp breaker switches shown on our pedestals - one for each hot line. But even though there are two switches marked "50", they do not operate independently. The whole circuit will trip if one line is overloaded. Finally, this is another good reason to have a amp surge protector with voltage protection on your amp rig.

Those devices test both lines of the amp service and protect all your appliances no matter which leg they may be on. If you do not have one of these devices, one bad leg could be the reason some appliances work and others don't. However, one bad leg will probably lead to much worse problems than that. The neutral in a amp circuit is there to help balance the total volts between the two hot lines so they each carry only volts and no more. Our microwave takes watts according to the nameplate.

According to our RV owners manual, an RV water heater will use about 10 amps, a roof top air conditioner uses 13 - 15 amps, and an electric space heater uses 10 - 15 amps. Any appliance that has an element to heat or cool takes lots of amps. So if we run our air conditioner, have the water heater on electric instead of propane , have the refrigerator on electric instead of propane , run the microwave, the coffee maker, and the TV we will need We had better be on 50 amp service or we can't do that.

So that's how you determine what appliances you can run at the same time when you have AC power.

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Find the wattages for each appliance and determine the total amps. Then compare that figure to the amps your power source can supply 20, 30, Obviously, you have to make more choices when on amp service than you do when on amp service. Well, the above is one method for figuring what appliances you can run at the same time. Another method is trial and error. That is probably the most popular method among RVers - just keep turning things on until the pedestal breaker trips. Computing the amps required for each appliance is also important when determining what size generator you might want.

Need to Know Differences Between 30 and 50 Amps

We didn't know that at the time we bought our rig, so we just said "Yes, give us the generator option. We ended up with a Onan watt propane generator. Since generators produce volt AC power, that means ours will produce So, with the generator on, we can pretty much run the same appliances that we can with a amp hook-up. At least until a neighbor tells us to shut the thing off or we run out of propane. One last comment on calculating amps and tripping breakers.


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  • RV 30 Amp And 50 Amp Adapters To Allow Electrical Hookup Between RV And Power Supply On Site.

An initial amp "surge" is typical for starting any appliance containing a motor or compressor. So even though your total amp calculations, appliance by appliance, might be within your amp or amp threshholds, you can still trip breakers when you turn on a new appliance and add it to the circuit. To compensate for the start-up, build a little cushion into your calculations. And avoid plugging in with several appliances in the "on" position.

Your Answer

Well, yes they are. BUT now we are going to look at amps from a volt, DC standpoint.


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Why do we want to do that if most of our major appliances are volt, AC appliances? Well, we may want to park our RV in places where we can't plug into an AC power source. Or we may not have a generator. Or we may not want to run our generator to produce AC power because of the noise or cost of fuel, etc. An inverter is a device that "inverts" DC current and changes it to AC current. We'll use easy math. Let's say we have a TV that uses watts.

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So the rule of thumb is to multiply the AC amps required by an appliance by 10 to determine the DC amps it would take to run the same appliance using batteries and an inverter. You can see that it takes significant battery capacities to enjoy the full capabilities of an RV when not hooked up to "shore power" or running a generator. Batteries for RVs are rated by the "amp-hours" they provide in a 20 hour period. Well, I won't get into that, but just think of it as how many amp hours a battery can supply in a day from full charge to being fully discharged used up.

Let's say we want to use our inverter and batteries to run our two TVs, satellite receivers, a few lights, and two laptops all plugged into AC outlets in the rig for five hours during the day. Let's say we've calculated our total watts and figured the appliances would take a total of 5 AC amps.

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We know from our previous discussion that it would take 50 DC amps 10 X 5 amps using the batteries. If we ran all those appliances for 5 hours that would be amp hours 50 DC amps X 5 hours. So we would need a battery bank that has a total capacity of at least amp hours.